Epoxy Resin for Casting
BUILD A RESIN TABLE
How To Make A River Table
Building an epoxy table or resin river table is a fun way to create your own gorgeous table that can be used for many purposes. Whether you are looking for a new dining room table, coffee table, desk or something else entirely, resin river tables are sure to bring beauty and function in your space!
Choosing the Right Resin for Your Timber Project
RiverPour is our deep casting epoxy resin designed for river tables, larger-volume timber pours and deep casting.
It has an easy 2:1 mixing ratio by weight, making larger batches simple to measure accurately. RiverPour has a long working time, low exotherm, outstanding HALS UV stability, excellent clarity, very low viscosity and great air release.
As a general guide, RiverPour can be poured at approximately 50mm depth at 25°C, with a working time of over 4 hours, allowing plenty of time for pouring and degassing if required. Suitable pour depth will depend on the total volume of resin, ambient temperature and shape of the pour.
Demoulding can generally begin from around 72 hours, once the resin is sufficiently hard. Once fully cured, RiverPour reaches approximately 78–81 Shore D, making it ideal for machining, turning, sanding and polishing.
RiverPour performs best when there is sufficient mixed resin mass to generate and retain the heat required for curing. For general applications, we recommend mixed batches of approximately 3kgs or more, with large-volume pours of 40kgs+ also well suited to RiverPour. Smaller batches can be successfully used, depending on the dimensions of the pour and ambient temperature; however, they may require additional consideration to ensure sufficient curing temperature is reached. For very small batches, gently warming both closed Part A and Part B before measuring and mixing can assist the curing process.
ArtCast Slow is an excellent alternative for smaller timber voids, cracks and lower-volume pours where the total resin volume may not be sufficient for RiverPour.
Its very low viscosity allows it to flow easily into intricate timber details while helping trapped air escape.
As a general guide, ArtCast Slow can be poured at approximately 20mm per layer, depending on the total volume, surface area and ambient temperature. Smaller-volume applications may allow greater depth depending on the size and shape of the pour.
For deeper areas, multiple pours can be completed.
Once fully cured, ArtCast Slow reaches approximately 85–90 Shore D, producing an extremely hard, high-gloss finish that can also be sanded and polished.
For best results, we recommend working in a stable environment of approximately 22–25°C and allowing the resin, timber and workspace to reach a similar temperature before pouring.
For further assistance in selecting a product most suitable to your application
How To Make A Resin Table
Are you a first-time user or a seasoned pro?
Here is a basic informational guide to build resin tables with some pro tips, from start to finish on how to work with our artistry systems.
When first receiving your epoxy table resin kit, there are a few things you will need to get set up and ready to pour.
Here is a list of everything you will need to make a river table along with your resin kit to get you started.
Resin Art Supplies To Build A River Table:
-
Silicone Mat or Drop Sheet
-
Mixing Sticks or Drill Mixer
-
Flat Ruler (or similar)
-
Scales
-
Spirit Level
-
PPE - Mask & Safety Glasses if required please read our SDS before use.
-
Timber Piece/s
-
Wood Sheets for mould construction (MDF, Chipboard, etc)
-
Wood Screws
-
Silicone and Silicone Gun for gaps
-
Mould Release
-
Baby Wipes or Alcohol Wipes
-
Heat Gun and or Butane Torch
-
Fragile or Standard transporter tape
-
Water Spray Bottle
-
Sandpaper 40 to 240 grit
-
Cotton Cloth
-
Polishing Compound
The Ultimate Guide To Building A Resin River Table
Building a resin river table can be no easy task.
​
Before starting any river table, it is important to ensure your work area / surface is level and clean of dust, free from solvents and any other hazards, and to protect your surface by laying down a drop sheet.
​
Once your work area is ready, you can now inspect your river table mould and clean if needed. If you are planning to use our ArtCast products please see our Cast an Object page.
​
For this guide, the table mould we will refer to will be laminated MDF or chipboard. Please note that acrylic, metal and plastic sheets can be suitable for the mould material.
How To Make A River Table Mould
When constructing the resin table mould, we recommend to only allow 10 to 20mm headroom from the highest level of epoxy, as this will help with heat dissipation. Ensure all side walls are attached above the base sheet, as this will help with demoulding later.
​
The resin mould construction needs to be square and side walls to be level, this will help when sealing the joints and corners. Pre-drill and countersink all holes allowing approximately 100-200mm between screws, once mould is mocked up and all screws are tight, you can apply a bead of silicone to all inside joins making no naked joins visible.
If this mould will be for multi-use, we would recommend to use fragile or standard transport tape on all internal faces prior to mocking up and fastening, as this will help with the mould not breaking when demoulding.
​
Once the mould is sealed with silicone, a little tip is to tape all outer joins, so if the mould were to leak, this will assist in stopping the mould from sticking to the floor or work table once cured. Once the river table mould is completed, it's time to place it into position, and this is where it will stay until it's time to demould. It's very important to have the project as level as possible.
Timber Preparation For River Tables
Now you are ready to cut the timber to size and/or insert into the mould. When selecting orientation, please keep in mind the base of the mould (bottom side) will be the top surface of your River Table.
The reason is when using deep casting epoxy systems, during the curing phase, the heat will be above ambient temperature and some (but not all) additives such as defoamer, air release and UV inhibitors, will tend to consolidate in higher concentration in the top portion of the pour, because of this you will find the top of any deep cast to be softer when compared to the bottom. The bottom will be slightly harder and will achieve maximum hardness a lot quicker, this will save a lot of time, and will be of higher quality when cutting, sanding and polishing.
When you have the timber in your tabletop mould, this will be a great time to secure the timber down so it won't float once the epoxy resin is poured. The brace can be mounted on the top face of the mould and spacers covered in tape are wedged between it and the timber in order to achieve this. The timber can also be secured to the mould base with silicone, 5min epoxy, glue, or nails.
​
When using a mould release, in general only a very light spray is needed. Some products may need to be lightly wiped or brushed into the mould with a clean and dry cloth or brush. Please check manufacturers instructions before use, do note that mould release is not mandatory, however will help assist in demoulding and will help prolong the life of the mould for repeated use.
Calculate Resin Needed
Not sure how much resin you need? Use our Resin Calculator to calculate the volume of your pour in litres, then use the RiverPour conversion calculator to convert your required litres into kilograms.
RiverPour is mixed 2:1 by weight, so always measure Parts A and B by weight rather than volume.
How to Mix Resin For a Table
Once you have confirmed the amount of epoxy resin that is needed, you can gather a set of scales and the mixing vessel/s you will be using. Be sure that the bucket/s will be large enough to hold the total volume of mixed resin.
Place the bucket on the scales and turn on, ensuring the scales show zero.
We recommend to add the Part B Hardener first to the mixing container, and the reason for this is the Hardener density is lower than the Part A Resin, so when adding the resin to the hardener, the resin will drop to the bottom of the mixing container and while that occurs, the hardener will coat the resin and will help it not stick as much to the base and walls of the container, making mixing a lot easier!
​
Once both resin and hardener are in the bucket, we recommend using a drill mixer for anything over 3kg. You will start the drill mixer on its slowest speed, making sure the mixing head is at the bottom of the bucket or container, and making sure not to allow any air to be mixed into the mixture, you can increase the drill speed if needed.
When mixing, it is normal for the mixture to go hazy as the resin and hardener begins to combine. You can use a mixing stick or a paddle pop stick to scrape the sides and bottom of the mixing vessel. If the amount is too large, you can use the drill mixing head while running to scrape the sides and bottom. Continue mixing until the resin has become clear and does not have any streaks.
Mixing Pigment into Epoxy Resin
You can now add colourant at this point, be sure to remember to always add very minimal in the beginning and slowly build up to the desired colour or opacity. If you require degassing in a vacuum chamber, we recommend to hold a vacuum for 5 minutes and release, this cycle can be repeated for up to 60 minutes from when mixing had commenced.
How to Pour An Epoxy Resin Table Top
When pouring the mixed resin into the mould, we use a ruler (or similar flat surface) placed into the resin art table mould on an angle and pour the epoxy resin very slowly, being careful to avoid allowing the epoxy to drip off and splash, as this aids in minimising air bubbles forming. This can be repeated in many locations if needed, once the table mould is full to the required level. This is a good time to use a paddle pop stick to slowly scrape all the timber inner edges to release any trapped air bubbles, this may need to be repeated later in the curing stage if required.
How Long to Leave Epoxy Resin to Cure
Once poured, you can give the resin surface a light pass with a torch to help release any surface foam or air bubbles. Take care not to overheat the surface.
During the curing cycle, RiverPour will gradually increase in temperature. The amount of heat generated will depend on the total resin mass and volume, pour depth, mould dimensions and ambient temperature.
For a standard river table pour of approximately 20kg, at 50mm deep and an ambient temperature of 22–25°C, fan assistance is generally not required.
For deeper pours, larger-volume pours, or when working in warmer ambient temperatures, gentle fan assistance can be helpful to move warm air away from the mould and reduce excessive or uneven heat build-up.
If using fans, position them to circulate air around the mould rather than blowing strongly or directly onto the resin surface.
Mould design can also affect heat retention. Deeper moulds or moulds with significant headroom above the resin level may retain more heat around the casting, which can contribute to hot spots and areas curing at different rates.
RiverPour can generally be demoulded from around 72 hours, however cure time will depend on the ambient temperature, total resin mass/volume and dimensions of the pour.
Before demoulding, the resin should be sufficiently hard throughout the casting. If using a Shore D meter, we recommend a minimum reading of approximately 75 Shore D. Alternatively, you can check the surface using your fingernail - the resin should require significant force before any indentation can be made.
Demoulding your River Table Top
Once the cured resin has achieved the correct hardness, demoulding can commence. Depending on the size and type of project, the piece can remain in the mould for longer if required. RiverPour will continue to harden over the following 4–7 days, and allowing additional cure time can make demoulding, machining and finishing easier.
If the resin still feels flexible or dents easily when you begin demoulding, allow a further 24 hours before continuing.
Once demoulded, we recommend allowing the piece to rest flat for approximately 24 hours before machining or finishing. Depending on the size of the project, a surface planer, CNC or router sled may then be required to level the surface. Any cutting, docking or shaping can also be completed at this stage.
If you find any larger holes, divots or areas that require filling after demoulding, these can be patched using ArtCast Slow or ArtCast Fast, depending on the size and depth of the repair. If required, tint the patching resin to match the original pour as closely as possible.
For the best result, complete any patching before planing, sanding or final surface finishing.
Sanding Epoxy Resin River Table
When you are ready to sand your river table, we recommend starting with 40-60 grit sandpaper for small imperfections or if machine marks are present.
Next stage you will do what is called water popping and this step will help raise the woodgrain and any imperfections will be more visible. To do this, you will need a water spray bottle and you lightly mist the whole table surface you are sanding, then wipe down with a dry cotton cloth, please note you will need the water to be distributed evenly, and it is best to wait 45-60 minutes before sanding with 60-80 grit. Water popping should be done in-between each grit size up to 180 grit.
Once the table is sanded to 180 grit, any pinholes or divots that are visible can be patched again using the step noted above. Once all patches are sanded, this is a great time to router the edge, and sand all table edges and top surface with 240 grit.
​
If you are looking for a stained or oiled finish, we recommend cleaning the table with raw wood cleaner or alcohol wipes and applying the wood oil of your choice, please follow product manufacturers instructions. If you are wanting a high gloss polished look, you will need to continue sanding to 400 grit and continue wet sanding to 1200 grit and above. Normally the bottom side of the table will only be sanded up to 180-220 grit.
​
When you are ready for polishing, we recommend a three-stage polishing kit, which contains a cutting compound, a medium compound and fine compound, please follow product manufacturers instructions.
Which epoxy for an epoxy resin table?
There are many types of epoxy, which is why some people find it challenging to get into epoxy arts and crafts.
Choosing the right epoxy depends on the size, depth and total volume of your pour, and our online Project Helper can help you find the best resin system for your project.
For timber and river table projects:
-
RiverPour – designed for epoxy resin river tables, resin wood and timber applications, larger timber pours and deep casting. Its very low exotherm, low viscosity and long working time make it ideal for larger-volume pours. As a general guide, RiverPour can be poured at 50mm depth in a single layer at 25°C. Pour depth can be increased in some applications depending on the total resin mass, pour dimensions and ambient temperature.
-
ArtCast Slow – ideal for art casting, smaller timber voids, cracks, encapsulation and lower-volume casting. Its very low viscosity allows it to flow easily into intricate timber details and helps trapped air escape.
-
ArtCast Fast – a low-viscosity casting resin suited to smaller, shallower voids and repairs where a faster cure is preferred.
For porous timber, a thin brushed seal coat of ArtCast Slow can also be applied before the main pour to help reduce air being released from the timber.
​
How to choose a river table resin top coat?
Resin top coats come in various levels of gloss. DiamondCote is a high gloss. The best option for a simple pour-and-leave method, while ArtCast is the best option for a sand-and-polish method. Both DiamondCote and ArtCast are excellent options for creating unique, long-lasting epoxy resin table top finishes.
How to maintain a timber epoxy resin tabletop?
The maintenance of clear resin for wood is an easy task that does not require highly technical skills.
The best way to prevent scratches on your tabletop is to buff instead of scrub.
​
While it may seem tempting to use rubbing alcohol to remove oil and dirt, we recommend avoiding this solution since it could cause a dull finish.
​
In spite of the fact that your tabletop is completely cured, steam cleaning could tamper with its quality. Use a soft cloth, soap, and lukewarm water to clean your table top to keep it looking pristine without causing discoloration.
On the table top you should never place anything straight from the stove or microwave. We recommend coasters or heat mats for hot mugs/dishes.
Want to learn more? We have other How To like Casting Resin Projects, Create Resin Art, How To Make A Resin Art Cheese Board and also great information on like What is Pigment Paste For Resin, What Can I Put in Epoxy Resin and The Effects of Humidity on Epoxy. Have any other questions about our products? Please checkout our FAQ Page.
Visit our online store for all your resin art supplies to help you build an amazing epoxy table.
Disclaimer: Before pouring any resin, please make sure you read the product Safety Data Sheet (SDS) before use. Outcome can vary depending on weather, humidity, mass and other unforeseen factors. All recommendations are for informational purposes only. Just Resin assumes no responsibility, since the method of application and its use is beyond our control. It is the responsibility of the user to ensure a proper assessment has been carried out. No representation or warranties, either expressed or implied, or merchantability, fitness for purpose or any other nature are made here under with Respect to the product to which this information refers.
Please take note a resin table can also be referred to as an epoxy table, river table, river pour table or epoxy resin table. More popular content is seen online referring to river tables, epoxy river tables and river resin tables.
